Transformation


4 Spinning


Preparation of flax for spinning
After scutching, the linen fibre is combed, spread out and drafted several times until a rove ( a slightly twisted sliver of flax fibre) has been formed . This rove is then spun into a yarn but during this process it is soaked in warm water (60/70 C) , which softens the natural gummy substances contained in the yarn and permits the individual fibrils within each fibre to slide in relation to each other, thus producing a very fine and regular yarn. This is called " wet spinning". However there is also another method of spinning flax, which is called " dry spinning", and which produces coarser yarns .The rove in dry spinning is spun without being soaked in warm water. The flax fibre can also be spun into a yarn by mixing other fibres (such as cotton, wool, silk, viscose, polyester, acrylic...) on looms used for spinning cotton or wool.
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(1) Flax spinning mill (2) Modern automatic loom

5 Fabric Manufacturing

As with other fibres Linen can be woven or knitted. Traditional looms have been replaced by automatic ones, which through the lattest technology, produce very sophisticated fabrics made of pure linen or of mix of fibres ( figured wovens, damasks, serges, honeycomb patterns, jacquards, velvets). Technological progress in knitting linen yarn has been such that it has created a new kind of texture.

6 Dyeing & Finishing

Electronically controlled printing bed
Linen fabrics, once woven or knitted need to undergo certain other processes, such as bleaching, dyeing,ca lendering etc. In days gone by, bleaching was carried out in the open fields, where the pieces of fabric were spread out and exposed in the direct action of sunlight, rain and dew. Today it is done on a large scale. Dyeing, like bleaching, can be done on the linen yarns either before weaving or on woven fabrics. Linen is easy to dye and print. Linen also lends itself to other treatments, such as flameproofing, no iron, stain repellancy, stonewashed, and mercerizing.


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